It is about 8:30 in the morning and the sun has not yet made its appearance. The misty
clouds fold her cold arms around the desert – a scene so classically Swakopmund! As
we drove past the Dorob National Park fence, it feels like we are leaving civilization
behind. In front of us lie the mighty dunes stretching far and beyond what we know.
Sandwich Harbour is a love story between sand and sea.
Everything in Namibia goes beyond the usual. About 50 km from Walvis Bay the Namib
Desert meets the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean at a place called Sandwich
Harbour. At first, it is difficult to believe that a place like Sandwich Harbour exists. The
harbour forms a natural bay that opens to the north and is roughly 4.2 km long and 4 km
wide. A shallow lagoon just south of the bay makes for a spectacular sight. In August
1995 the harbour was declared a Ramsar Site.
But the most intriguing part of the harbour is the mystery behind the name. There are
few debated theories, but none are definitive - leaving the true reason open to the
imagination. Some debate that the name originates from an English whaling ship, the
Sandwich, or maybe it was a corruption of the German word “sandfische” which is a
species of shark found in the area. In the end the theory that sounds the best might be
true version.
Historically, the bay was a commercial port based on whaling and small-scale fishing,
but the harbour was considered inferior to Walvis Bay, and no development took place.
Today, the harbour is a sanctuary for birds and animals that have adapted to the life in
the desert. As we entered the Dorob National Park a few brave seals entertained us with
a pose or two as we drove between the small sand dunes looking for a gecko. After a few
failed attempts our guide managed to find the little Namib sand gecko. This is truly a
magnificent find. The little guy is about 13 cm long and is nearly translucent with
webbed feet, which allow it to burrow and walk in the sand.
Photo credits: Janke Murray
Sandwich Harbour lies untouched in the desert waiting to be explored. Our passionate
tour guide from Far and Beyond shared the hidden treasures of the harbour with us,
making this an unforgettable tour. His words still echo in my ears: “The best way to
connect with a place is to go beyond the usual.” Exploring Sandwich Harbour definitely
requires time, a sense of adventure and a willingness to go beyond the usual. This
destination brings silence and solitude to the traveler. Even those romantic travelers will
find this love story about the sand and sea kissing under the setting sun to be the most
beautiful ending of all.
Author: Janke Murray