Take a trip into a formerly forbidden territory, the Sperrgebiet. It was proclaimed as a national park in 2008 and renamed to Tsau Khaeb National Park. Flanked by the Orange River mouth in the south and Lüderitz in the north, the Park is an intriguing medley of desert landscapes with a diverse array of species.
The first shining diamond discovered in 1908 sparked the diamond rush and prompted a vast area of land to be regulated and restricted by the German colonial government. The Sperrgebiet, the ‘Forbidden Territory’, also, inadvertently, protected not only diamond riches but a desert wilderness.
© Daniela Diekmann
Diamonds were so plentiful that they glittered in fairytale valleys by the light of the moon. Diamond towns sprang up in the desert and people flocked to the area. Once, laughter wafted over the sand from skittle-alleys and recreation-halls, and gravel was poured into jigs with the hope of a lucky find. Today, worn-wood and rusty remains lie scattered about as the desert reclaims her territory, and golden sand sifts through long-broken windows and piles up in dark corners.
Who would have guessed that a windswept expanse could hold such an assortment of wealth? A fortuitous combination of geological and climactic conditions enables myriad life-forms to survive. It reveals that, contrary to appearances, one of the most ancient deserts in the world is, indeed, a living one. The range of vegetation zones from coastal to mountainous desert, and the Tsau Khaeb National Park’s position in a transitional zone between winter and summer rainfall areas, gives rise to extraordinary diversity. This is where you can find not only tenacious desert flora, but species like the endemic tortoise - the Nama padloper, the Namaqua dwarf adder and the desert rain frog.
© Gondwana Collection
The Succulent Karoo biome, extending into South Africa, is classified as one of the world’s top 25 Biodiversity Hotspots, unrivalled in succulent diversity and endemism. With the proclamation of the national park, 90% of this zone (with 2 439 endemic plants) has now been granted protection.
As the Namib experiences less than 100mm of rain per year, life in the desert is dependent on the life-giving coastal fog. It forms when warmer air from further out at sea moves towards cooler air along the coastline, chilled by the icy Benguela Current, and rises with the elevation of the land. This lovers’ embrace produces the characteristic coastal fog, which ensures the survival of many desert creatures.
The fragility of the desert ecosystem has become increasingly apparent over the years. Driving over a lichen field just once can do severe damage and leave tracks that last for decades. Recent discoveries by conservation scientists of the uniqueness of the desert’s flora and fauna remind us of the sensitivity of the desert environment and the need to safeguard and celebrate it.
© Teagan Cunniffe
Find the wild Horses of the Namib at the Garub viewpoint near Aus. The population has been living free for over a century and epitomises the rugged freedom and wild beauty of Namibia. Base yourself at the friendly family-run Klein-Aus Vista, and venture out to visit the wild horses and explore the old diamond mining town of Kolmanskop.
© Anna Heupel
It takes a leap of imagination to envisage the opulence once experienced in the midst of the desert when building material was shipped from Germany and women flaunted the latest European fashions. Kolmanskop’s attraction today is the fascinating history of diamonds (and ice!) in the desert and picturesque scenes of creeping sand, peeling paint and pastel-coloured doorways.
Guided tours: Mon-Sat at 9.30 & 11.00, Sundays and public holidays at 10.00.
© Anna Heupel
The Tsau Khaeb National Park covers 26 000km².
The abandoned diamond-mining town of Pomona experiences the highest wind velocities in the country.
Five million carats were found in the area until production was interrupted by WWI. Larger sized diamonds were discovered near Oranjemund and after the war the industry gradually moved southwards.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, there was little water to be found in the desert. Water was obtained by the use of salt condensers in Lüderitz and was also shipped from the Cape Colony.
© Gondwana Collection
Registered operators offer day trips into Tsau Khaeb National Park. These must be booked several days in advance to allow sufficient time to obtain the necessary permits.
Be prepared for heat, wind and cool misty conditions.
Leave only footprints and take only photographs.
Enjoy the unusual loveliness of the Namib Desert.
Be prepared to be intrigued.
Ron Swilling
Do you feel like exploring Tsau Khaeb National Park?
Contact the Gondwana Travel Centre to plan your trip.