Enjoy the intriguing oasis of Waterberg Plateau Park, a lush pocket of mountain surrounded by thorn savannah, 300km north-east of Windhoek and 70km east of Otjiwarongo. The red-coloured mountain has an eroded sandstone-crown, coloured in lichen shades, and a leafy base reaching up to its craggy top. The flat-topped plateau extends for 48km, is 8 to 16km wide and rises 200m above the African savannah.
Rainwater that falls on the crown is absorbed into the porous Etjo sandstone until it meets the impermeable shale layers of the older Omingonde Sequence, emerging as springs on the lower slopes. These springs give the ‘Water Mountain’ its name and create the dense and lush vegetation at its base, which makes Waterberg so attractive. The Acacia savannah at the foot of the plateau contrasts with the green sub-tropical dry woodland and grassy plains up above.
© Harald Süpfle, Wikipedia
A variety of life can be found at Waterberg from eye-catching plants like the flame lily to the diminutive and endearing Damara dik-dik. Ten fern species have been recorded, one endemic to Namibia and Angola.
Proclaimed as a nature reserve in 1972, the 405km² Waterberg Plateau Park has been recognised as a suitable sanctuary and breeding centre for endangered and protected species. With little accessibility from below, the plateau served as an impenetrable fortress to provide protection from poaching and human- and livestock-encroachment. Initially proposed as a sanctuary for eland, conservationists soon realised the value of the site to establish other breeding populations. Several species - black and white rhino, Cape buffalo, tsessebe, roan and sable antelopes – have been introduced. The protected environment has been so successful that surplus animals are now released into other areas. This section is only accessible on guided game drives that leave in the morning and afternoon to explore the area on top of the plateau.
Over 25 species of large mammals occur here, including giraffe, kudu, impala and warthog. Roan and sable antelope can be spotted amongst the trees, while buffalo can often be seen quenching their thirst at the water points.
More than 200 species of birds have also been recorded at Waterberg, and, importantly, 33 species of raptors. It has the highest concentration of peregrine falcons in Africa and is home to the dwindling Namibian population of Cape vultures. Waterberg is also a prime spot to find 7 of Namibia’s 11 endemic bird species: Carp’s tit, Hartlaub’s francolin, Rüppell’s parrot, Bradfield’s swift, Monteiro’s hornbill, the rockrunner and the short-toed rock thrush.
Maybe not everyone’s choice meal, but the carcasses that are placed at Waterberg’s ‘Vulture Restaurant’ attract hundreds of vultures, and especially, the Cape vulture. The population of Cape vultures has dramatically declined in past years, mostly due to the poisoned bait set for predators by farmers.
© Namibian.org
Testifying to the age of the rock, ancient dinosaur tracks lie embedded in sandstone on top of the plateau. They are 200 million years old!
Waterberg marks the last stand of the Herero people in the 1904-1908 Nama-Herero wars against the German colonial forces. The Battle of Ohamakari took place on 11 August 1904. The notorious Lothar von Trotha, led the German forces and Samuel Maharero, the Herero. By nightfall, although the Herero had put up stiff resistance, it was evident that they had been defeated. Many of the Herero fled, pursued by the Germans into the Kalahari Desert to the east. Some reached the safety of British Bechuanaland but many perished in the desert. A graveyard in the rest camp contains the graves of some of the fallen Schutztruppe.
Experienced and self-sufficient hikers can walk the 42km 4-day trail, while the less energetic, or those with limited time, can enjoy guided wilderness trails and strolls around the rest camp. One of the best is the short trail up to the top of the plateau, providing an opportunity to appreciate the vegetation, birds and wildlife at the base, and the spectacular vista from above.
The first inhabitants at Waterberg were the San; their engravings are still visible at the Okarakuvisa waterhole.
Although Waterberg was first proclaimed Game Reserve no 4 in 1907, it was de-proclaimed in 1928 to make way for fruit farms.
Keep eyes open for black eagles, peregrine falcons and Cape vultures.
Secure all food as baboons frequent the rest camp.
Take pleasure in the lush mountain of life.
Ron Swilling
Do you feel like exploring Waterberg Plateau Park?
Contact the Gondwana Travel Centre to plan your trip.