101 Reasons to visit Namibia: Kolmanskuppe

The wind has finally stopped as the sun creeps over the dunes. There is absolute silence and the sand that claimed the town fades away. If you listen carefully, you can almost hear the laughter of children as they walk to school.

The scent of freshly baked bread from what was supposed to be the bakery fills the air. It is like walking into a time capsule of a place once full of life and people. The abandoned town is still filled with the memories of those who used to live in Kolmanskuppe. Not too far from Lüderitz in the south of Namibia lies the ghost town of Kolmanskuppe. The town is named after the transport driver, Johnny Kolman, who transported goods from Keetmanshoop to Lüderitz. It was his custom to make camp in the vicinity of a low lying gneiss hillock.

Photo credits: Janke Murray

Kolman once got caught in a fierce sandstorm and his oxen vanished. Fortunately, he was rescued, but the wagon remained abandoned for years and the kopje was named Kolmanskuppe. However, the establishment of the town in 1908 is thanks to the railway worker, Zacharias Lewala who founded a diamond while working in the area. The German railway inspector, August Stauch, realised that the area is rich in diamonds and German miners quickly settled in Kolmanskuppe and the area was declared a “Sperrgebiet” –meaning a forbidden zone.

This sand barren landscape soon became a well of luxury. There was a post office, an ice factory, butchery, baker, a school and a hospital. For entertainment, European opera groups came to perform in the theatre, there was a skittle-alley and a sports hall. Due to the extreme weather conditions, it was difficult to have big gardens, and the women ordered pot plants from Cape Town or Germany. The miners were dependent on the train to bring them supplies, although it was mostly dry rations. There were no refrigerators, but they used cooler chests instead.

Photo credits: Janke Murray 

The iceman would deliver ice blocks every morning to keep the cooler chest cold. Despite the harsh conditions in which the townspeople use to live, Kolmanskuppe was a haven. One family that moved from Pomonapforte to Kolmanskuppe brought a pet with them. This was no ordinary pet, as it was an ostrich. Although the people of the town were not particularly impressed with the pet, the ostrich did provide plenty of laughter and lasting memories. They used the ostrich to pull a sleigh over the sand, especially during Christmas time.

The town thrived, but the prosperity was not to last. With the start of World War I, the Germans working in Kolmanskuppe were interned and the diamond field slowly started to deplete. To make matters worse, the richest diamond-bearing deposits were discovered in 1928 near the Orange River. With depletion in Kolmanskuppe many of the inhabitants left their homes and possessions behind and joined the rush to the south. One day the Kolmanskuppe sand clearing squad failed to turn up, the iceman did not come and the school bell rang no more.

Photo credits: Janke Murray

In 1956 the town was completely abandoned and replaced by Oranjemund. Soon the tidy streets and gardens were buried under sand. Within 40 years Kolmanskuppe was born, flourished, and died.Today, the ruins of Kolmanskuppe welcome tourists to explore the sand-covered streets and houses. Each house tells a story of the family that once lived there. For history lovers and photographers, this is a must-visit destination.

Author: Janke Murray